Have thought about building a bumper – even bought a little welding machine. However, a couple months back, Genright came out with a new bumper for the JK – made from aluminum (they also have a steel version).
Looks great I think – wish they could have fit some cutouts for fog lamps though!
- Winter Soft Top storage –
- DONE! Grill mod – a metal mesh screen to fill the slots in the front grill, yet still allow ample airflow through to the radiator. Â A couple approaches are discussed in the thread – I like the single sheet of perforated stainless steel the best – as it requires no drilling or gluing.
- DONE! Marker light mod – the light on the front bumpers is merely a running light from the factory – unless you have a European JK. Â This is a simple mod – and it’s surprising that the vehicle didn’t come from the factory with it working as a running/signal light already!
- DONE! Fuel Door Installation – the instructions from Mopar are apparently shiat! Â So this photo thread should be a big help…
- hard-top hoist – this is a pretty slick plan – and a complete materials list – uses a hand crank winch
- DONE! tailgate shock mod – a great mod to keep the tailgate from swinging closed all the time
- removing the front factory bumper
- Installing a winch – and keeping the front factory bumper
- hard-top hoist – another nice plan – some aspects of the JK Forum approach above are executed a bit more cleanly (and without requiring any welding), but this one uses a powered winch instead of a hand crank.
Northern Alberta Radio Club
This seems to be a pretty logical mod, one that should have been done at the factory. In North America, the side markers are basically running lights. In Europe, they are required to function as signal lights – so JK’s sold there don’t need this mod.
After doing a google search for “marker light mod”, it turns out that this isn’t limited to just Jeep products at least ;^) This article on the Daniel Stern Lighting site is a good read!
JK-Forum: Marker light mod thread
The trademark 7 slot grill of a Jeep is all fine, but the open slots expose the radiator to all sorts of hazards both on and of the road. Rocks, tree branches, small animals, who knows!
Many people zip tie nylon mesh or eavestrough mesh to the back of the grill. Seems like a fair bit of work, and not that strong or rugged.
I think this is a better method – it’s much stronger, and it can be removed if necessary. It’s simpler I think, and uses no drilling, gluing, etc. It’s starts with a sheet of the perforated or expanded metal. Make a few cutouts, make four bends, and it’s ready to slide in between the radiator and snug up against the back of the grill slots. One thing to be careful with is to ensure you choose a perforated mesh with enough hole density to ensure adequate airflow so that the radiator can do its job.
I was able to pick up piece of perforated stainless steel for about $30 – a few bends and a few cuts later, it was all done, and looks good 5 years later. I added a cutout lined with door edge guard to allow my winch power cables to feed back to my battery.
Used a metal break to do the bends, used tin snips and a grinder to cut out the tabs.
Here’s a rough pattern that I used to make mine – use it as a guide – perhaps make your own template starting wit a piece of cardboard, and add the necessary bends and cutouts so that you can make an even better grill insert than mine!